Taste of Zabaikalye Tour 2018, No. 3
CHUCK RITCHIE WRITES:
August 24: Today we were treated to a visit to a community of Old Believers in the Tarbagatay region. The Old Believers are a group whose ancestors refused to accept new reforms in the Russian Orthodox Church under Patriarch Nikon in the mid 17th century. The reforms were perhaps not particularly significant. They concerned among other things making the sign of the cross with three fingers together as opposed to two done in the old way). The Old Believers broke off from the main church, retaining the liturgical and ritual practices of the Eastern Orthodox Church. They still survive today not only in Russia, but in other countries of the world such as Poland, Ukraine, Bolivia, Canada and Alaska in the USA. Catherine the Great exiled them to Siberia, and here they continue to follow their traditions.
Chuck with their guide, Gennady
We first visited a Museum where our guide Gennady took us through a host of domestic artifacts from as far back as the 17th century on up through the Soviet period. I was particularly intrigued by a set of iron chains or shackles that were worn by the Decembrists who were exiled to Siberia by Tsar Nicholas I in the 19th century. We then visited the Church with a local priest.
And then were escorted a few blocks away to a typical home of an Old Believer for lunch. Salad, soup, cabbage pies, meat potatoes, fresh veggies, compote and…samagon (home distilled spirits seasoned with cedar nuts). Throughout the meal we had a non-stop narrative from our hostess regarding the foods, and customs of the table.
The Old Believers Museum in Tarbagatay region outside Ulan Ude
The table is set by the Old Believers for our tourists
At the end of the meal appeared four members of an ensemble called Sudibinushka who performed for us. They had been to America with the full ensemble in New York, Kentucky, Montana and California. They were quite impressive and they even got young Lyosha up to do a little jig.
Old Believers singing for the group
Suddenly, the men walked out, and the two women asked for a volunteer, to which Irene innocently responded. While giving us a running narrative of women’s traditional dress, they transformed Irene into an eligible young woman for marriage, with all the skirts and the elaborate headdress, explaining the significance of each piece they put on her.
Irene is ready for her beau, Old Believers’ style! The 18 beads in the headdress (barely visible on her forehead) indicate she will have 18 children!
Tom was recruited to be her husband. He proved to be a little bit fickle as his head was turned by the younger of the pair while Irene was supposedly out checking out the kitchen. It was a very clever and well done presentation enjoyed by all.
Olga Kostina, Irina, Lyosha and the tourists, Judy, Ginny and Chuck, with the hosts and members of the singing group…all gather round the “newlyweds” Irene and Tom.
